Thursday, October 30, 2008

Dipper Creek: The Upper Canyon

Shane & I got out of Seattle at a reasonable hour after work. The plan was to meet Chris in B'ham, slam some dinner real quick & then finish the drive up to Squamish. The three of us were giddy with excitement, having resigned ourselves to our fate. We had done about as much prep work as was possible & even had a semi-complete list of all the known rapids on the creek. Comes a time when you just gotta step up & take what you got coming to ya, and in the morning we would do just that.

Morning came quickly. A high pressure system brought clear bright skies and cold temps, making for the first time this season I'd have to chip frost off my windshield. We were at sea level in Squamish, & we knew it would be even colder up in the mountains. Bryan was stoked to have coerced a land support team, including his wife Lise-Anne & our buddy Jonaven, into bushwhacking along the rim of the gorge with ropes in case we got ourselves into a pickle & needed a haul outta there. Stopping along the way at Jonaven's, we were surprised to find out that he'd also talked 3 of his gung-ho buddies into joining them on the land crew.

On the drive up, we were still unsure on the actual plan. Would be be starting with the Lower Canyon, since it seemed at the time like less of a chunk to bite off? And since, with our foot soldiers in mind, the hiking along the rim of the Lower Canyon was much easier. Or would we put our support crew through some pain & suffering, & just fire into the super-steep Upper Canyon without the benefit of a recent scout of the bottom part of that gorge? We debated the merits of each & ultimately decided to head upstream to attempt the Upper Canyon .. again.

The hike in wasn't hard by BC standards, but definitely got the blood & sweat flowing. And compared to our slog UP the very same canyon wall a year prior, it was remarkably easy. .


Big Dipper.
Photo: Todd G.

BD Falls is every bit of 70 feet & not nearly as "slidy" as it would appear in the photo above (blame that on a bit of distortion from my superwide lens). It is totally runnable, and I'd probably run it the next time I'm up there .. but I can't help thinking that the landing's equivalent to being a quarterback getting sacked by a really big lineman who came in hot on your blindside. Keep in mind this rapid drops immediately out of the pool that Double Dip, the 2-tiered 50-footer, lands in. Our goal was to actually figure out & run Dipper Creek to the bottom, not invest a ton of time in safely stunt-boating two big falls. We also couldn't risk blowing our long-awaited opportunity on a trip-ending explosion/evac scenario on the first rapid. So with that in mind, we admired the awe-inspiring view of Double-Dip-into-Big-Dipper on the way to our chosen put-in at the base of BD ..


Tret in the BD exit drop .. a fun, low-stress way to start this mission!
Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Shane very stoked to be committed to the gorge.
Photo: Todd G.

Upper Dipper is quite stacked. Just around the bend from the spectacular entrance series is Dipstick, an S-shaped rapid that involves boofing a small horseshoe ledge while limbo'ing some wood, then driving left & back to center for the main part of the rapid -- a silly 25-foot slide.


Photo: Todd G.

Shane sez: While this drop wasn't all that difficult, it felt good to actually have to make some moves to stick this drop. Dipper is such a low volume creek, it would be easy to get lazy and just drift and boof ... it ain't no Robe Canyon.



Chris on Dipstick
Photo: Todd G.


Dipper is all bedrock all the way .. pretty much.
Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.

Bedrock constrictions form most of the Dipper's rapids, which included lots of little ledges & long twisting slides. From Dipstick, a few mellow slide features leads you to Little Dipper Falls, a drop that we'd gotten a glimpse of on our first aborted mission, & ever since, had been calling "The 50-Footer", for the sole purpose of descriptive naming.


River-level scout of the drop formerly known as The 50-footer.
Photo: Todd G.

On one of Bryan's later scouts of the creek, he deemed it in the neighborhood of 35 ft. Scale & proportion tend to get skewed one way or the other when scouting from so high above the features. At any rate, this must-run slide-to-vert falls is very good to go, & was the standout rapid of the day.


Bryan "Kato" Smith calling dibs on this one.
Photo: Todd G.
Shane sez: ^^^ I love this shot. The vantage downstream almost steals the focus from Bryan, and it really captures what it looks like in there - the canyon is every bit as tight as is looks downstream!


Now for some perspective, here's Chris running it with Bryan in the pool below.
Photo: Todd G.


Chris's view of me running Little Dipper.
Photo: Chris T.



Shane rolling in ..
Photos: Todd G.

And we haven't even gotten to the crux yet ..



Shane probing a super-tight, un-portageable constriction below a sizable ledge. Maybe we should call it Skinny Dip .. I dunno. This rapid is visible in some of the Little Dipper shots above.
Photo: Chris T.

At this point we were getting hemmed-in. I mean, we were "in the gorge" from the put-in, but at this point it gets really deep & really tight .. which leads us to Rowdy Flatwater.


Los Dudes eddying out at the lip of Rowdy Flatwater.
Photo: Todd G.


Looking back up at Skinny Dip & Little Dipper from the lip of Rowdy Flatwater. It's a big steep drop into the slidey bit of RF, & it's this part that falls onto a ridge of rock extending from river-left that is scary.
Photo: Todd G.

RF is a looooong twisty, very constricted, very steep rapid formed by a vertical right wall that goes to the sky .. & a sloping, moss-covered left wall. The main issues with the rapid are: (1) the seemingly unavoidable piton in the entrance, which would slow you down enough (or stop you dead in yr tracks, or destroy your boat) making the violently recirculating hole behind it a real hazard; and (2) if, by the grace of the buddha, you make it thru that mess, you still have a couple more bad holes to negotiate. It's only a boat-width wide, so how bad could it be right? But that just means the holes are really long upstream to downstream & that moving left to right to get outta the holes isn't an option.


Looking downstream from the entrance. You see the line, right?
Photo: Todd G.

In spite of the very slick bedrock, moving around on the river-left side of RF is surprisingly easy .. but with higher water, that option would shut down. Since there was no way to walk "around" the bottom of the rapid, we put our land team to work for the first time here. The portage was very involved, & it probably would've been easier to just roll the dice on running the rapid. We set up a rope-assisted traverse with elevation-control from a line running up to an anchor manned by a couple of those dudes up the canyon wall. This worked for boats & paddlers. I think you could still make it work w/o the land team, but it would be a much more wet experience .. & I think in the future at least the bottom half of the rapid will just get run via a sketchy seal-launch .. hate to be the last guy, though.


Our portage circus.
Photo: Todd G.

Below the debacle that is Rowdy Flatwater, a little bit of boogie water & more jaw-dropping gorge scenery leads to some very fun stuff. It was here that Bryan said to me, "Now we're in the gorge!" .. I got a chuckle out of that. I knew what he meant though -- now we're in the deepest, most constricted, least portageable, & least known part of the gorge. Yeeha!


Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.

The creek is small, so the eddies are tiny. At one point, we each occupied our own respective eddy while Chris had a scout from a boulder on river-right. He then waved Bryan, then me, thru a steep slot. Bryan got out below on river-left in the midst of the continuous rapid, while I awaited instruction. He gave the "so-so" look, but I was eager to move. It was blind, fast & very fun .. & I was under-prepared for how long the rapid was. I bombed over a slide-to-boof into a very tight pinch, into a fast jet approaching an obvious boulder boof, into ... it just kept going! finally subsiding in a narrow corridor of perfectly polished granite with a towering waterfall cascading down upon my head. Excellent.


Photo: Todd G.
Shane sez: This drop was such a bonus. I'd never scouted this section of the river, so this drop was a surprise and so much fun. It had an entry boof that looked tricky, but once I landed that, it was just splashy and fast all the way through. It just kept dropping, and I didn't know what to expect so I just kept throwing in boof strokes. Then you come around the corner and there is the amazing waterfall cascading in off the right wall. Wow!


Bryan
Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Appreciating the amazing place we landed in.
Photo: Todd G.

At this point, the creek continues to fall away thru a series of slides & small falls. Unfortunately, our progress was stopped by wood at a point in the gorge where portage was impossible. For a tense moment, it was questionable whether or not egress from the gorge itself was even an option .. but we were fortunate to have stopped in a place where the left wall mellowed just enough to allow us to rope up & out. We radioed-in our support crew to meet us with ropes. We hauled 7 or 8 pitches with their help & did a bit of a bushwhack mission in the typical BC fashion before reaching the road no worse for wear.


Photo: Todd G.


Decision time .. where do we go from here?
Photo: Chris T.


Up & out is where we went from there! Our ground support crew assisting in the get-out. Huge thanks to all those guys!
Photo: Chris T.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

This is the dopest deepest little crack. Nice work. I'm a little sad it's got such a tricky takeout though... how about finishing the run at that final waterfall near the Squamish confluence, or is that totally out of the cards?!
What an amazing bedrock gorge, I could spend all my days looking for something like this and you all hit it up! Sweet!
Mike Harms

Todd Gillman said...

thanks mikey h.!

the idea with the dipper cr. report was to do a "pulp fiction" style piece, where you start the story from a climax-y point deep into the chronology .. then rewind all the way back to the beginning & build out the story from the start of the chronology, til we get to the climax-y point in the story .. capiche? i think it's a little hard to follow, cuz none of us are screenplay writers & none of us really have the time to invest in making it perfect. sorry.

anyway, point here is we ran most of the upper canyon til we were forced out of the bottom part of it by wood .. but we still have more of the story to tell to get us to where we started blabbin' in the "Fat Lady Singin'" post. hope that makes sense to everyone!

looks like rain is coming, maybe we'll get to paddle el Robe together this weekend!

t

E.G. said...

well done boys that looks so good... the big one goes???? maybe.. next time in BC i gotta go find this beauty. range life back at it.. ive been waiting..

evan garcia

egcreekin.blogspot.com

Anonymous said...

wow you guys take some time off and then you come back with a fairy tale. how walt disney of you. Now I await returning to fantasyland for a finale of dreamy waterfalls, stunning gorges, and probably some dancing, sing-songy trolls who celebrate TRL's courageous rescue of Princess Dipper ...

Hartje

Todd Gillman said...

dang, that's a tall order hartje, what with all the trolls & such... you might see me this winter/spring for some surfiness & visiting of friends in the B.A.

e.g. .. this shit's definitely yr style. yes, the big ones go, & yes, you shd come up & run 'em. been following yr blog niceness.

Peter said...

and here I am... snow´s falling, my 2 stroke is revĂ­n up (snowmobile that is)... And U faries are livin the dream, damn U Yank´s