Dipper Creek: The Upper Canyon

Shane & I got out of Seattle at a reasonable hour after work. The plan was to meet Chris in B'ham, slam some dinner real quick & then finish the drive up to Squamish. The three of us were giddy with excitement, having resigned ourselves to our fate. We had done about as much prep work as was possible & even had a semi-complete list of all the known rapids on the creek. Comes a time when you just gotta step up & take what you got coming to ya, and in the morning we would do just that.

Morning came quickly. A high pressure system brought clear bright skies and cold temps, making for the first time this season I'd have to chip frost off my windshield. We were at sea level in Squamish, & we knew it would be even colder up in the mountains. Bryan was stoked to have coerced a land support team, including his wife Lise-Anne & our buddy Jonaven, into bushwhacking along the rim of the gorge with ropes in case we got ourselves into a pickle & needed a haul outta there. Stopping along the way at Jonaven's, we were surprised to find out that he'd also talked 3 of his gung-ho buddies into joining them on the land crew.

On the drive up, we were still unsure on the actual plan. Would be be starting with the Lower Canyon, since it seemed at the time like less of a chunk to bite off? And since, with our foot soldiers in mind, the hiking along the rim of the Lower Canyon was much easier. Or would we put our support crew through some pain & suffering, & just fire into the super-steep Upper Canyon without the benefit of a recent scout of the bottom part of that gorge? We debated the merits of each & ultimately decided to head upstream to attempt the Upper Canyon .. again.

The hike in wasn't hard by BC standards, but definitely got the blood & sweat flowing. And compared to our slog UP the very same canyon wall a year prior, it was remarkably easy. .


Big Dipper.
Photo: Todd G.

BD Falls is every bit of 70 feet & not nearly as "slidy" as it would appear in the photo above (blame that on a bit of distortion from my superwide lens). It is totally runnable, and I'd probably run it the next time I'm up there .. but I can't help thinking that the landing's equivalent to being a quarterback getting sacked by a really big lineman who came in hot on your blindside. Keep in mind this rapid drops immediately out of the pool that Double Dip, the 2-tiered 50-footer, lands in. Our goal was to actually figure out & run Dipper Creek to the bottom, not invest a ton of time in safely stunt-boating two big falls. We also couldn't risk blowing our long-awaited opportunity on a trip-ending explosion/evac scenario on the first rapid. So with that in mind, we admired the awe-inspiring view of Double-Dip-into-Big-Dipper on the way to our chosen put-in at the base of BD ..


Tret in the BD exit drop .. a fun, low-stress way to start this mission!
Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Shane very stoked to be committed to the gorge.
Photo: Todd G.

Upper Dipper is quite stacked. Just around the bend from the spectacular entrance series is Dipstick, an S-shaped rapid that involves boofing a small horseshoe ledge while limbo'ing some wood, then driving left & back to center for the main part of the rapid -- a silly 25-foot slide.


Photo: Todd G.

Shane sez: While this drop wasn't all that difficult, it felt good to actually have to make some moves to stick this drop. Dipper is such a low volume creek, it would be easy to get lazy and just drift and boof ... it ain't no Robe Canyon.

Chris on Dipstick
Photo: Todd G.


Dipper is all bedrock all the way .. pretty much.
Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.

Bedrock constrictions form most of the Dipper's rapids, which included lots of little ledges & long twisting slides. From Dipstick, a few mellow slide features leads you to Little Dipper Falls, a drop that we'd gotten a glimpse of on our first aborted mission, & ever since, had been calling "The 50-Footer", for the sole purpose of descriptive naming.


River-level scout of the drop formerly known as The 50-footer.
Photo: Todd G.

On one of Bryan's later scouts of the creek, he deemed it in the neighborhood of 35 ft. Scale & proportion tend to get skewed one way or the other when scouting from so high above the features. At any rate, this must-run slide-to-vert falls is very good to go, & was the standout rapid of the day.


Bryan "Kato" Smith calling dibs on this one.
Photo: Todd G.

Shane sez: ^^^ I love this shot. The vantage downstream almost steals the focus from Bryan, and it really captures what it looks like in there - the canyon is every bit as tight as is looks downstream!

Now for some perspective, here's Chris running it with Bryan in the pool below.
Photo: Todd G.


Chris's view of me running Little Dipper.
Photo: Chris T.



Shane rolling in ..
Photos: Todd G.

And we haven't even gotten to the crux yet ..



Shane probing a super-tight, un-portageable constriction below a sizable ledge. Maybe we should call it Skinny Dip .. I dunno. This rapid is visible in some of the Little Dipper shots above.
Photo: Chris T.

At this point we were getting hemmed-in. I mean, we were "in the gorge" from the put-in, but at this point it gets really deep & really tight .. which leads us to Rowdy Flatwater.


Los Dudes eddying out at the lip of Rowdy Flatwater.
Photo: Todd G.


Looking back up at Skinny Dip & Little Dipper from the lip of Rowdy Flatwater. It's a big steep drop into the slidey bit of RF, & it's this part that falls onto a ridge of rock extending from river-left that is scary.
Photo: Todd G.

RF is a looooong twisty, very constricted, very steep rapid formed by a vertical right wall that goes to the sky .. & a sloping, moss-covered left wall. The main issues with the rapid are: (1) the seemingly unavoidable piton in the entrance, which would slow you down enough (or stop you dead in yr tracks, or destroy your boat) making the violently recirculating hole behind it a real hazard; and (2) if, by the grace of the buddha, you make it thru that mess, you still have a couple more bad holes to negotiate. It's only a boat-width wide, so how bad could it be right? But that just means the holes are really long upstream to downstream & that moving left to right to get outta the holes isn't an option.


Looking downstream from the entrance. You see the line, right?
Photo: Todd G.

In spite of the very slick bedrock, moving around on the river-left side of RF is surprisingly easy .. but with higher water, that option would shut down. Since there was no way to walk "around" the bottom of the rapid, we put our land team to work for the first time here. The portage was very involved, & it probably would've been easier to just roll the dice on running the rapid. We set up a rope-assisted traverse with elevation-control from a line running up to an anchor manned by a couple of those dudes up the canyon wall. This worked for boats & paddlers. I think you could still make it work w/o the land team, but it would be a much more wet experience .. & I think in the future at least the bottom half of the rapid will just get run via a sketchy seal-launch .. hate to be the last guy, though.


Our portage circus.
Photo: Todd G.

Below the debacle that is Rowdy Flatwater, a little bit of boogie water & more jaw-dropping gorge scenery leads to some very fun stuff. It was here that Bryan said to me, "Now we're in the gorge!" .. I got a chuckle out of that. I knew what he meant though -- now we're in the deepest, most constricted, least portageable, & least known part of the gorge. Yeeha!


Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.

The creek is small, so the eddies are tiny. At one point, we each occupied our own respective eddy while Chris had a scout from a boulder on river-right. He then waved Bryan, then me, thru a steep slot. Bryan got out below on river-left in the midst of the continuous rapid, while I awaited instruction. He gave the "so-so" look, but I was eager to move. It was blind, fast & very fun .. & I was under-prepared for how long the rapid was. I bombed over a slide-to-boof into a very tight pinch, into a fast jet approaching an obvious boulder boof, into ... it just kept going! finally subsiding in a narrow corridor of perfectly polished granite with a towering waterfall cascading down upon my head. Excellent.


Photo: Todd G.

Shane sez: This drop was such a bonus. I'd never scouted this section of the river, so this drop was a surprise and so much fun. It had an entry boof that looked tricky, but once I landed that, it was just splashy and fast all the way through. It just kept dropping, and I didn't know what to expect so I just kept throwing in boof strokes. Then you come around the corner and there is the amazing waterfall cascading in off the right wall. Wow!

Bryan
Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Photo: Todd G.


Appreciating the amazing place we landed in.
Photo: Todd G.

At this point, the creek continues to fall away thru a series of slides & small falls. Unfortunately, our progress was stopped by wood at a point in the gorge where portage was impossible. For a tense moment, it was questionable whether or not egress from the gorge itself was even an option .. but we were fortunate to have stopped in a place where the left wall mellowed just enough to allow us to rope up & out. We radioed-in our support crew to meet us with ropes. We hauled 7 or 8 pitches with their help & did a bit of a bushwhack mission in the typical BC fashion before reaching the road no worse for wear.


Photo: Todd G.


Decision time .. where do we go from here?
Photo: Chris T.


Up & out is where we went from there! Our ground support crew assisting in the get-out. Huge thanks to all those guys!
Photo: Chris T.

Ain't No Fat Ladies Singin' 'Round Here!

"Man, I've never wanted to run a drop I didn't wanna run, as much as I want to run that drop."



Those were my words to Bryan as we were on what was supposed to be a quick final scout of "Vertigo Gorge" prior to giving the rest of the team -- Todd and Chris, who were presently setting shuttle -- the green light to drop in. But now the analysis paralysis had set in, which prompted us to radio them with the not-so-rosy report and get them to hike in and meet us for further inspection and a group decision.

After hiking down the cougar trail along the rim of the deep gorge and rapping in for a river-level look at the source of our indecision, Todd returned and expressed the same sentiment, almost verbatim.

And now here we were standing on the Cat Perch overlooking one of the most impressive and committing gorges we'd ever seen, all quietly thinking the same thing.

Hours later ... we'd broken down camp and wallowed in our defeat at the takeout, drinking a beer before returning to civilization and the responsibilities that always pull you out of the woods sooner than you'd hope. We were bailing out of yet another canyon. This time, the third time, on our ongoing 3-year project we'd taken to calling "Waterfall Creek" for obvious reasons.

"Everyone should drink another beer," Chris chided us, in an attempt to slow the retreat.

We were demoralized and facing a long drive back to the city. Boats were strapped, gear was sorted, and iPods were plugged in, ready for the road. So when Chris casually offered up his next proposal, it really seemed to come from left field, although now, after a couple beers, we were probably more receptive. Turns out, that was part of the plan.

"What would you guys think if we could get around the waterfall and down to that little eddy? I'm ninety-five percent certain there's a big tree upstream that I could use as an anchor to rap down into the gorge. If it works we could still run the rest of the gorge. I mean, would that change anyone's mind?"

"Ah man, that's cheating. That waterfall is the price of admission into that place." Todd said.

"No way, man! I mean, the goal is to make it down through the gorge, travel the river, run some good drops and see some good scenery, right?" Chris countered.

It took only a couple seconds of consideration for Todd to agree and pipe up, "Okay, I'm in! If you can get me to the base of that waterfall, I'll drop in," as he grinned and looked at the others.

I then upped the ante, offering to just go ahead and run the waterfall as long as I had a person at the base of the falls with a rope. All weekend long, Todd and I had been the most adamant about expediting the mission and getting back home early. But now here we were, all flipping the proverbial bird to responsibilities, SO's, and sound decision making -- we were driving back up to our camp. We were going to put on Dipper Creek ... again.


On the Cat Perch overlooking Vertigo Gorge
Photo Chris Tretwold


The heart of Vertigo Gorge is caused by the huge intrusion from river-right.
Photo Todd Gillman


Photo Todd G.


Middle of Vertigo Gorge
Photo Todd G.


The cathedral teacup within Vertigo Gorge
Photo Chris T.


The double-drop into the cathedral teacup. The lead-in to the double is a waterfall into a caved-out room.
Photo Todd G.


River level scout of Vertigo
Photo Todd G.


Bryan & Chris contemplating commitment & consequences in Vertigo.
Photo Todd G.



It's good to be back!

Guest Blogger: Topher Smith on the Moose

This from loyal reader and old roommate, Topher Smith (a.k.a. "Captain Panic")

Moose Trip '07:
The Moose is an awesome example of an east coast fall release river that has something for everyone. There are easy sections (top and middle), and of course the Bottom Moose, which is what we have always come up for. This trip was my 3rd time visiting Old Forge, NY for the Bottom Moose. Every time I've been up there it's cold, and usually rains with a good possibility of some snow. This time we got the rain, but luckily no snow! It's one of the only road trips that I absolutely prefer to rent a cabin or hotel room, instead of the typical camping set up. The basic trip is drive up Fri night, run on sat, run on sun, and get packed up for the drive home.

[Editor's Note: And by "run," Topher is referring to kayaking, not jogging! I just didn't want some of our readers who have a tendency to prefer the latter to get confused by that play on words :)]

The run starts off with a great bang, Fowlersville Falls. A steep slide of about 50 ft, with a nice hard hit that you always plug no matter what your intentions. The river is also the best example out there of an east coast drop pool run. After almost ever drop is a little run-out then a flat lake. The run also has 3 dams, 2 of which are frequently run as a lead into a rapid. Shortly after a few more drops you get to a very nice and fun waterfall - Augers Falls. But first you slide right over the first low head dam of the run, then into the falls. Paddle some flat water, portage a dam, and you come into the slidey section of the run. Sure Form is a fun 100 yard long, but no so steep slide; although, being a little off your line at the top equals a lot off your line a the bottom! Fun either way goes, but certainly it is much smoother to be left at the bottom. Right = likely carnage. Our group was on fire, with clean lines ALMOST all day long. After a few more drops and your at the big-daddy you've been dreaming about since last year - Crystal Falls. Crystal is the most complex drop on the run, with a few different ways to enter the bottom drop of the rapid. The standard starts river right, with a boof. Boof, break left and hit the plugger 15' drop at the bottom. There is also the Alpine line which involves two more straight forward ledges right on top of each other, then culminating in the same last plugger, IF your on line. There is also one last drop at the end of the run - Magilla. The real Magilla line is to run on the river left, but is has a semi tricky ledge to boof, and lands in a shallow slide run out. We typically opt for the "slide over the dam, hit the slot, run the falls" line on river right. Did I mention you have to slide over a dam and your line is completely blind??

Anyway, it's a great run that is nice and steep, not very committing, and always provides a bit of carnage from the groups that head up from out of town. It also has a spring time release season, but we typically are busy in our neck of the woods that time of year. So if your in the NY or east coast area in the fall or the spring, put it on your list of "TO-DOs." -T


The Team: Topher, Rodger, Geoff J, Stacey, Brian D, Jeff Urban













Thanks, Topher, for the update from the right side.

Powder Day on The Robe

First, if you haven't seen these surveys on American Whitewater, please take the relevant one:

Colorado Boaters: Click Here

Green River (WA) Boaters: Click Here


Now, on to the action:

One aspect of snow riding activities that I find truly unique and enjoyable is that of the POWDER DAY! Sure other activities have perfect conditions, but usually not with such a fleeting occurrence like that of getting fresh tracks on a deep day, which cause people to act with such reckless abandon toward their given daily and life responsibilities. However, Tuesday, October 23 was a Powder Day on Robe canyon ... and it coincided with my Birthday necessitating actions of irresponsibility in favor of pure joy.

Below is how the conditions set up:

10/21
This was supposed to be the day for Robe ... perfectly aligned on the day before the workweek, and following a week of rain that had everybody excited to get out on the local runs. However, another system moved in too early pushing the local runs into the extra juicy levels and pushing most paddlers in the region in search of that perfect latte.

10/22 @ 11:03 pm
Todd sez via email:
looks like tomorrow is going to be the EPIC fluffy flow & sunshiney day on robe. i'm bummed i can't do it.

10/23 @ 9:57am
Chris T. sez:
Wayrad and I had dawn patrol on c-water this morning, we were boofin ski jump when ya'll were just rubbing sleep out of yer eyes!!

While I had long since been up when they were getting their boof on, it was my Bday and I was feeling less than satisfied with the boating that took place over the weekend. I started thinking about how nice it was outside and maybe I needed to rally another dawn patrol for the following morning.

10/23 @ Noon - 65 degrees
Step outside from morning classes and this odd yellow sphere-shaped object is in the sky causing symptoms such as squinting, perspiration and thoughts of irresponsibility.

10/23 @ 12:02
Thinking there is a slim chance I can rally anyone today on such short notice, but knowing that its going to rain tomorrow, I call Chris T to see if he wants to double down on kayaking for the day. He sez that he's got a dentist appointment in a couple hours.

10/23 @ 12:03
I call several other local paddlers who either can't go or are not answering their phones.

10/23 @ 12:04
As I am about to give up on the mission, an incoming call from Chris T. The dentist appointment has been rescheduled and its on! Meet at the take-out at 2pm.

10/23 @ 12:05
I call Utah ... no answer. I call everybody else I know who might have any slim chance of joining the new momentum.

10/23 @ 12:15
I know Utah is not working and probably sleeping, so I call again. I wake him up this time and he says he'll call back in 5.

10/23 @ 12:20
Utah is in!

10/23 @ 1:30
Cruising down I-5 with minimal traffic and the windows down, sunglasses on, and arm out the window. All I'm missing is a flaming elbow tatoo.

10/23 @ 2:40
Riverside - 70 degrees!

10/23 @ 3:45
72 degrees and Utah is surfing in Mrs. Robinson's ... again!

10/23 @ 3:53
74 degrees and hitting the huge boof at 6.0 feet on Magic Fabric!

10/23 @ 4:40
Beers at the Take-out, sun is still shining, Utah is banging rays, and I know this is exactly where I was supposed to be at this very moment!


Winter is coming! Whether it is the first powder day of the season in the snow or the last sunny powder day of the year on the river, do your best to make sure you are exactly where you need to be on that day when it comes!